 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Replacing grease nipple in situ? |
 
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19604  
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Hope the OP doesn't mind me commenting on the tghread a little further but ive removed my rear prop and handgbrake drum today, the latter wasn't a must but I chose to.
Won't hurt to clean it up a bit anyway. I've also found the UJ is donefor on mine, after articulating it and checking it. This is the UJ furthest to the rear, nearest the rear diff. I'd ideally like to replace all the bolts as I have them, but the transfer box end they are partially captive. The large circlip keeps them in place, but I feel that even if this is removed I'm not convinced they would come out even then. Plus I don't have a circlip tool as big as that. 
Would it be a flange out job instead? I'm guessing it may be the case, if so I'll leave them alone as they are in good condition. *EDIT* Done a few searches, and looks like the flange would indeed need to come off to replace those bolts. I'll leave them alone I think. It's looking a lot like I'll need to go down the GKN UJ replacement route. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
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12th May 2018 4:12pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16892 
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Yes, flange off, circlip off, bolts out, reverse to refit.
However there is absolutely no point whatsoever replacing the bolts (3/8" UNF by the way) unless the threads are damaged. I replace the nuts about every third removal since nylon insert nuts become less stiff each time they're used, but there's no need to replace them every time like the WSM says (it's easy to spend when it's not your money)? |
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12th May 2018 4:58pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19604
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👍🏻 Thank-you Blackwolf as always.
I didn't go for Genuine nuts anyway, but the correct size. As I read on another site, having a LR logo doesn't make them any better than OEM for things like nuts and bolts. Ideal opportunity now to give my handbrake drum a clean, and will need to look up the 2.4 Puma 90 GKN UJ's. LR's are @ £53 each from Duckworths, I think GKN will be perfectly sufficient and OEM anyway. Only thing is I will need to have them changed over for me. One UJ on one lateral movement appears to be pretty much siezed, probably due to the grease nipple missing and from when I do not know! My guess is water has got straight in. Luckily the slider nipples are all still present though and there is no damage to the yokes. I can't see sticking new nipples in. (If the threads left are any good.) will be worthwhile at all on the UJ's. Especially as the WSM mentions that they should be replaced, I'd imagine the roller bearing are shot. There was no way of telling without removing the props that's for sure, and I do agree with Blackwolf that removal is the best scenario to grease and check them. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
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12th May 2018 5:19pm |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720 
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I suppose they always specify new nylocs in general, as a workshop can't be sure how many times they've been used before. I suppose there is a liability element to it too.
I tend to reuse them a couple of times unless there on something difficult to get at or safety critical. On the flanges there are 4 so it's highly unlikely one let alone more than one would come loose! I've bought a few selection boxes of nyloc nuts though. UNF, UNC and Metric. They work out at pence per time that way and if you find when reassembling something that one isn't as grippy as it should be it's easy to just fit a new one. Sometimes I'll buy genuine nuts and bolts if they're an odd size, it's less hassle to just pay £1 a nut/bolt/screw than waste time tracking down one that matches. |
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12th May 2018 5:19pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16892
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Replacing ujs is not difficult and well within the capabilities of most diy mechanics, but it is easier if someone shows you how the first time (although I am sure that there are many YouTube vids claiming to show how to do them). It is certainly an essential skill for Defender owners who do their own maintenance IMO. I usually buy my ujs from Dingocroft and always buy GKN and always the ones with the largest journals that will fit the prop. |
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12th May 2018 6:56pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19604
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I've never done a UJ before so I didn't know what was involved really, having just looked at a good YouTube video this one:
It doesn't look like to bad a job, I've recently acquired a grease gun and quality up to spec Lithium grease. I've also got some of the grease nipples en-route. I knew I'd find a use for my circlip so plier one day too. 
The UJ ref / P/N: TVC500010 Here @ Dingocroft: https://www.dingocroft.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000...C500010_3d Or here via EBay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TVC500010-Land-...SwDcpZqBWE The above are coming up as 2007> (which my 90 is) and the grease nipple central is the same as fitted currently and I'm running factory props. Can anyone confirm these are correct or is there a more HD option I'm missing? Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 Last edited by custom90 on 13th May 2018 3:09pm. Edited 2 times in total |
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12th May 2018 11:36pm |
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| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2555 
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If buying non-genuine UJs make sure you get the HD ones with the metal seal caps and larger rollers. They are the same as the genuine ones.
Should cost you just under £20 each. If you’re paying significantly less than that then you’re probably getting the ‘standard’ ones which will not last as long. All types are sold as ‘OEM’ which in this case is a useless label. Here are the HD ones: http://www.shop4autoparts.net/parts/axle-s...m-j-75x27/ That’s the 75mm size - check yours to ensure that’s the right type. |
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13th May 2018 9:01am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19604
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Please see my edited post above. I forgot to add the links.
Retro - According to the link you posted they are smaller pre Puma. The 2007 90 > is larger than those using the P/N I have now listed in my post above. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 Last edited by custom90 on 13th May 2018 4:43pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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13th May 2018 3:01pm |
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| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2555
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If you’ve got the 95mm ones then they’re different yes, no idea if they are the same as the 75mm ones in terms of HD/genuine etc. I’m afraid.
If in doubt buy one Land Rover one and a couple of the better cheaper ones and see which matches. |
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13th May 2018 4:41pm |
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| Naycrx Member Since: 11 Oct 2023 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 93 
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Evening
Just been greased prop shafts and UJ's All ok apart from I can't find a grease nipple on the front prop uj, where it meets the Transfer box ? 2008 2.4 puma. I have some grease nipples just struggling to see where it should go |
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23rd Apr 2024 6:14pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19604
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Is it on a Puma? *edit* just saw it is.
Yeah, it’s in the centre of the UJ “spider”. There is a threaded hole there, you can buy them from LR, they are 2 piece so the coupling comes out at a 45 degree angle. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
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23rd Apr 2024 6:16pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19604
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https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-r...ront_44792
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266382677727?it...R-Cz1b_hYw Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
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23rd Apr 2024 6:21pm |
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| Naycrx Member Since: 11 Oct 2023 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 93
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Great.... forced grease into them .... so all good.... Will fit a nipple tommorow to the central one .
Thanks again |
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23rd Apr 2024 8:43pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19604
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 Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
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24th Apr 2024 4:07pm |
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